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How to Remove Minnesota Bees and Wasps Safely

August 7, 2017 by Pest & Critter Control Media

bee on flowerThis year’s war on wasps in Minnesota is necessary in part due to climate change: when there are not enough freezing days these insects flourish, and it allows them a much higher probability of survival than when the winters are harsh.

Therefore, colonies are larger than ever, wasps and bees (which we need to save) are hungry, and this makes them more likely to attack in response to the danger pheromone released when one of their own is under threat of death. That’s why swatting wasps and bees is not recommended; try one of the following techniques instead.

Wasps do have certain uses around the yard, consuming dead bugs and flies, but stings are painful and can be deadly to those who are allergic. Removing them can be difficult, as chemicals are toxic and can be harmful to children and pets – you might want to consider a more natural approach to eliminating these pests.

Prevention:

Prevention is always the first step to keeping your yard wasp and bee free. If you remove any discarded food, even pet and bird food, and cover trash cans, that will be one less attractant. Sweet smells attract wasps, including nectar, lotions and perfumes.

ground wasp nestDiscourage bees and wasps from making their home in your yard by checking your house and areas around it for places that need repair. Any broken siding or cracks in construction are ideal places for wasps to build a nest, and if there are ways to get into the house, such as through broken air ducts, vents or windows, they will take the opportunity.
Rodent holes and burrows in your lawn will also give them a safe place to live, so be sure to fill them in and keep the grass cut short.

Decorative wasp decoys will help too. They can be purchased at most home improvement or garden stores, or on Amazon. They’re especially effective for paper wasps, which can be territorial and generally will not construct a nest that is within 200 ft of the next one. Placing a couple of decoys, one on each side of the house, can dissuade them from going in. If you don’t want to purchase them, you can create your own and it requires no crafty skills. Simply crumble up some old newspaper into chunks, stuff them into plastic grocery bags and tie them shut. Stuff the bags into paper lunch-size bags, and then hang them up in corners and additional spots where wasps could be likely to nest in or around your property.

Grow wasp repelling plants:

Removing plants from your landscaping that attract wasps and bees will also help, and replace them with plants that they do not like, such as spearmint, thyme citronella, eucalyptus, and wormwood.

Not only do wasps stay away from all kinds of mint grown in the garden, you can back it up with peppermint oil, but putting several drops on a cotton pad and placing them strategically around your yard, such as on porch roofs, beneath eaves and in other cracks and on ledges.

A research printed in the Journal of Pest Management Science at 2013, reported exceptional results with peppermint oil.

The study also found that a combination of lemongrass, clove and geranium essential oils repelled employee wasps. Try a mixture of many drops of all the oils in a spray bottle full of water, and a couple of squirts of dish soap. Spray it liberally on and around your house, in areas where wasps are known to build nests.

These traps described below work by attracting wasps to fly into the container of sugar water, and they are not able to escape.

First, cut off the neck a two-liter plastic soda bottle.

Then remove the bottle cap and turn the neck upside down and put it in the jar opening which you just cut.

Bait the trap by putting a mixture of sugar and water inside. You could also use beer, soda, vinegar and water or even laundry detergent. By including a little bit of cooking oil to the edges of the trap, you will make it slippery and ensure the wasps cannot crawl out.

Hang your trap somewhere where wasps will be attracted to it, or close to an existing nest, and when it is full, simply take it down, throw it out, and build a new one.

hanging paper wasp nestEliminating wasp nests:

IMPORTANT: Eliminating wasp nests can be exceedingly dangerous. It’s strongly suggested to seek the services of a seasoned professional to perform the task for you. If trying yourself, first make certain you’re not allergic to wasp stings by assembling an allergy test with your health care provider. Make certain you wear protective clothing, and plan an escape route if the wasps opt to swarm.

An eco-friendly approach to eliminating wasps would be to use plain soap and water. Add two tablespoons of dish soap into a spray bottle full of water, and squirt it at the nests. Experts say the soap functions to clog their breathing cubes and they die almost immediately. It is far more humane than using pesticides to kill them, as these substances can take hours to be effective.

If you have got big nests, you might choose to handle them using a garden hose. Simply join the hose-end sprayer and fill it up with warm water and dish soap. This technique could be quite a bit messier and might increase the possibility of being stung, so make certain to stand as far back away from the nest that you can, and wear protective clothing.

Protective garments such as shorts, boots, socks, a hooded sweatshirt with the hood pulled over your head, gloves and protective goggles or eyeglasses are vital. Also remember that this is work that’s best done at night since that is when the wasps are least busy, so their response time is slower, and they’re not as competitive. Use a reddish or amber colored light for secure visibility as regular flashlights will bring wasps to you.

Another alternative is to light a fire in a barbecue just under the nest. Let it smoke for an hour or two, then once you are sure the nest is empty, you can knock it down with a broom. It is a good idea to keep a spray bottle of dish soap on hand in case any wasps remain. This technique only works on free hanging nests on tree branches or similar; do not use it if the nest is attached to the house, as you risk a fire.

Getting rid of bees in your yard:

beekeper catching a colonyBefore you take any action, it’s vital to be certain that it is definitely bees you’re addressing, and not wasps or hornets. Bees are valuable pollinators and aren’t aggressive or harmful (unless someone in your family has an allergy), so killing them must be avoided if possible.

You can identify bees by examining them (that is easiest if you can find a dead bee). Start looking for hairs on the body – all bees have hairs, whereas wasps tend to have smooth exteriors. Honey bees build their nests from wax, in a honeycomb formation, whereas other stinging insects often construct their nests from wood, fiber or sand.

Honey bees have a tendency to be most active in spring, even when they are collecting pollen. Watch for signs of them flying back and forth from the nest.

The best course of action is to telephone a local beekeeper or contact a pest control company. If you have confirmed the presence of honey bees and have found the nest (they prefer enclosed spaces like wall cavities, roofs and chimneys), then your first step must be to call a local beekeeper. Honey bees are disappearing quickly, and it is crucial that their habitats be preserved.

Beekeepers will often physically remove both the bees and their hive, without having to exterminate them. They may do this for free or they might charge a commission, depending on the location of the nest and the effort involved. In certain places, they might even pay you.

The beekeeper will usually cut out the honeycombs and set them in frames, which the beekeeper can later transfer to their own hive box.

If the nest is hard to reach, the beekeeper may use a special vacuum to suck up the bees without killing them.

If the nest is behind a wall, you might have to call a contractor to knock down a portion of the wall to give the beekeeper access to the bees. As the homeowner, you will have to cover the cost of the any repairs which follow.

The bees will probably become agitated as the beekeeper does his/her job. Therefore it is recommended that you keep your family, especially any pets or children, inside. The beekeeper will be protected by their beekeeping suit.

beekepper and honeybee hiveIn certain situations, local beekeepers may be unwilling or unable to eliminate the nest. If this is the case, you’ll need to call a professional pest control expert.

Once the exterminators have removed the bees, it’s important to remove the nest, otherwise the bees and the honey from the combs could begin to rot, producing a very bad smell and potentially causing damage. Then you’ll need to thoroughly clean the region with warm soapy water, and repaint if necessary.

bees in a colonyAnother choice for eliminating the bees without killing them would be to trap them out of the nest. This really is a time-consuming procedure, so it must only be undertaken by homeowners who are not in a rush to get rid of the bees or hire a pest management professional.

To trap the bees, you will need an exit cone created from screen wire.

For this procedure to work, it is very important that you seal up all other entrances (like holes and cracks) leading into the hive, otherwise the bees will simply find another way in.

To ensure that the trapped bees survive, you’ll want to put a small hive (provided by a beekeeper) as close to the exit cone as you can. When the bees that are trapped find that they can no longer return to their first nest, they’ll join this new nest instead.

Depending on the size of the original colony, it might take up to two months for all the bees to exit. The original queen will not abandon her brood, so you will need to inject pesticides into the wall to kill her and any residual bees. Clean up after. Once the bees have been removed, it is important that you remove the hive and then wash up any dead bees or honey prior to sealing the area.

The smell of old honey and wax can draw in new swarms who will begin to prepare their hive in the same place, so it’s important to eliminate the old one and seal off the area to be able to avoid going through the whole bee removal procedure again the following year.

To get rid of a large hive, you might need to tear down a wall; this is a nuisance, but remember that the cost of repairing the wall is less than the possible cost of replacing damaged drywall. Clean up the old hive, then paint over the area.

The last step would be to fill in the cavity (expandable foam insulation is recommended) and seal up any holes or cracks in the wall in which the bees could potentially reenter. It’s also a good idea to inspect the area periodically throughout the year, to make sure all of the entrances remain sealed.

We’re here to help so feel free to  call us  for more tips at (651) 646-6131.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: bees, exterminator, minnesota pest control, wasps, wasps and bees

How to Exterminate Minnesota Cockroaches

August 30, 2016 by Pest & Critter Control Media

Cockroaches are among the family of pests that are most irritating. They can be dangerous to human beings as they contaminate our food and act as carriers of disease. They distribute the microorganisms within their spit into the foods, causing various health problems. Damage is also caused to things in houses like books, clothing, electronics, wires, and so on. Read on to learn how to exterminate cockroaches.

cockroach

  1. Insecticide Spray

There are many chemical insecticide sprays on the market which can be quite successful in removing the roaches entirely. Cockroaches typically reproduce in places that are moist and warm. It is necessary that you follow all the security instructions before spraying, and keep pets and kids away from the insecticide.

 

  1. Cockroach Traps

This can be another powerful strategy to remove roaches from your house. An adhesive material is in the cockroach trap with scent as the lure, and when they enter the trap to taste the lure, they become entrapped in the adhesive. Correctly set the snare in the regions that are generally infested, and leave them for a minimum of one week to eliminate the roaches fully. Set new traps after two weeks to check for any re-infestation.

 

  1. Cockroach Bait

The cockroach bait features a chemical gel which functions as slow toxin for the roaches. The roaches will be brought to the lure and will bring more of their family to the lure. The cockroach who takes the bait will be killed within fourteen days. Put the lure in areas which cockroaches frequent such as trash, cracks on the ground, under the sink, cupboards, toilets etc.

 

  1. Liquid Concentrates

Liquid concentrate acts as a toxin for cockroaches, but it’s important to keep pets away when used. Use the diluted mixture, and duplicate the treatment to prevent re-infestation.

 

  1. Professional Pesticides

If other methods don’t work, you might need to use use powerful professional pesticides. These contain substances including Cypermethrin, which will help if your house or flat is having multiple roach infestations. The remaining effect of these compounds will kill all types of bugs and insects in your house and will continue for at least three months. This treatment should be used exclusively as a last resort and by a professional. If you’ve got children and pets at your house, try not to use this treatment without a pro.

 

Most of the repellent or cockroach prevention systems accessible the marketplace contain dangerous substances.

You’ll find many home cures for cockroaches without using substances that are dangerous for those who believe it is the best way to do away with cockroaches. Here are a few home or natural remedies for cockroaches.

 

cockroach infestationNatural Methods to Do Away With Roaches

It can be a simple process to remove cockroaches. It’s possible for you to combine sugar and baking soda in equal parts and sprinkling this mixture near the roach infested places within your house. As the baking soda reacts inside the cockroaches it causes them to gas up, and the roaches feeding on this mixture will die.

Alternatively, bay leaves are aromatic leaves mostly used in Indian cooking. It’s a pleasant although pungent smell. It’s possible for you to set the bay leaf powder near the nest and other places where the roaches commune. The scent will make the cockroaches move from the area as they do not like bay leaves.

You can also use bathing soap to eliminate cockroaches. Prepare the solution of water and soap with a large quantity of soap and scatter it directly on the roaches’ paths. You can even spray the solution on the nest to get the cockroaches to come out and then you can then kill them.

Ammonia has a pungent odor which will repel and irritate the roaches. The scent of the ammonia will keep the cockroaches away. Duplicate this treatment once in fourteen days to keep your house free of roaches.

Boric acid can be used in a home made lure to kill the cockroaches. Put little dough balls in various places in the house, where roaches are seen to eliminate them. Add sugar and flour into the mixture to lure the cockroaches and they will be killed by the boric acid in the mixture. You can even make a similar lure by combining 1 part of hot chocolate, 1 part of boric acid and 2 parts of white flour. Continue using the lure to make sure all the roaches are gone. Keep this mix where your children and pets cannot reach them as it is hazardous to pets and people.

Make a mixture of one garlic clove, cayenne pepper powder and one onion and combine one tablespoon in one liter of water. Allow it to remain for one hour. Add one tablespoon of liquid soap to this mixture and use it in all areas at home where the roaches gather.

Listerine acts as a very effective cockroach repellent. Combine equal parts of Listerine and water, and add two drops of dish soap to make a solution. Place this mixture in a spray bottle and spray it on top of the roaches if possible and on places where the roaches make routine visits. They’re going to certainly escape from areas where this is spread.

Bleach and Pinesol mixed has an incredibly strong odor which will discourage cockroaches. Pour on the roach infested regions then clean the area after 20-30 minutes.

Set peelings from banana, apple or mango inside an open bottle with petroleum jelly inside the rim in your kitchen and toilet space, which are frequented by roaches. The roaches will be attracted by the scent of the fruit rinds and they get trapped by the  petroleum jelly. Empty the cockroaches inside the jar into a pail full of soapy water to kill them.

Take an aluminum can and put bits of some cucumber rinds inside it. Leave it. The cockroaches will go in and most will not be able to get out. This really is an excellent, non-toxic way to remove roaches.

Another straightforward strategy to do away with roaches is the water trap. The roaches will enter into the jar and they’re going to not find a way to escape from your water trap. Only mature roaches can be captured with this process.

 

cockroach babiesPreventing Re-Infestation

Once you eliminate the cockroaches using home treatments, it’s important that you simply take suitable measures to prevent re-infestation. Here are the strategies to prevent cockroach re-infestation in your home or office.

 

  1. Locate The Nest And Destroy

If you see any cockroaches the nest will be likely in cracks or holes in the region. Use insecticides or any home treatments to ruin the whole nest once you’re able to find it. Be sure to seal interior walls along with any outside access points to prevent entrance of these insects into your home.

 

2. Setting Protective Traps

Unless done professionally, even if you’re successful in removing the cockroaches you should set traps to prevent additional infestation. Before they become resistant you have to kill the cockroaches before they lay eggs. They will be a threat if swift action isn’t taken, and they breed fast.

 

3. Spray Nest Areas

Spray insecticides in places where the roaches will potentially construct their nest. Spaces near drainage pipes, and moist and dark spaces under the bathroom or kitchen sink are prime locations. Repeat some of the natural home remedies for roaches every so often to ensure that the house is free of roaches. Keep the bathroom stoppers in place to steer clear of the entrance of roaches from your drain.

 

4. Keep Your House Clean

Keep your house clean to keep the roaches away. Wash your dishes and put the leftover food away quickly. Any food spills or crumbs should promptly be cleaned.

 

Tricks To Remember While Trying to Search for Roaches

The previously given home remedies for cockroaches are useful in removing roaches from your house, however you have to consider certain things while trying to do away with cockroaches. Should you be using chemicals and insecticides, attention should be taken as these substances may cause breathing difficulties and lung irritation in people.

Substances used for terminating roaches may include ingredients that are dangerous for kids and pets. Keep substances in positions not accessible to kids or pets but reachable to roaches. Attempt to keep the kitchen area and toilet dry, so that it doesn’t become a breeding place for roaches. Cleaning floors and  kitchen counters using disinfectant liquids will help keep roaches away. Make sure dirty dishes are not left overnight.

Cockroaches cannot live without water. Repair any water leaks, and always keep your cooking containers and pots upside down so that there are not going to be droppings or any cockroach eggs in them.

Clean up the area instantly if you kill cockroaches manually. They despise the smell of naphthalene, so keep naphthalene balls in your house as and inside the cupboards to keep cockroaches out.

Do not permit litter to collect at home. Anything from old paper to clothes can be their domain for breeding.

You could get the aid of professional pest and critter controllers if you are unable to remove cockroaches using the above procedures. They are going to be nicely equipped to get the job done using techniques to eliminate them and keep them from popping back up.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: cockroaches, exterminate, minneapolis, pest control, roaches

NO LONGER OFFERED 13 Lawn Removal Tips for Minnesota Moles and Voles in 2018 – They are Different

May 4, 2016 by Laughlin's Pro's

Mole and Vole Removal and how you get rid of these lawn damaging varmints.

mole removalvole controlThey have similar sounding names and cause havoc in your yard. Other than that voles and moles have little in common. Moles may be be better known, but it’s voles that cause much of the damage blamed on moles.

It’s important to know which rodent you have because mole control and vole control depend on going after the right mammal.

The Difference

The biggest difference between a mole and vole is the type of damage. Moles eat insects and worms. Their primary diet is earthworms with a few grubs and insects tossed in as appetizers. They don’t eat plants, and so their landscape carnage is really the incidental damage of tunnels and runways dug in lawns while on the never-ending search for more worms.

Voles are plant-eaters. They feed on grass and perennial-flower roots. They eat seeds and bulbs, especially in winter when other foods are scarce. They will girdle the bark off trees and shrubs. Meadow voles also make networks of surface tunnels across the lawn under the snow cover of winter when they venture out into open spaces that they’d avoid in the growing season.

Moles are seldom seen because they live and feed underground. They’re gray to dark brown in color, about 6 to 7 inches long and distinguishable by their long noses and paddled, webbed front feet – perfect for tunnel excavation. They have no visible ears either. Those paddled front paws allow moles to dig tunnels at a rate of 1 foot per minute.

Being voracious feeders that eat quantities nearly equal to their body weight every day, moles are constantly tunneling in search of meals.

Voles are rodents that look much like mice, only with shorter tails. They’re dark brown in color, about 5 inches in length and have eyes and ears that you can readily notice. There are several different species of voles in North America – some that do most of their damage above ground (i.e. meadow voles) and some that do more insidious root- and bark-chewing from underground (i.e. pine voles).

Voles are prolific reproducers that can quickly colonize an area. To make up for a short life span of 16 months or less, voles can go from impregnation to baby-delivery in 21 days – cranking out three to six young at a time and up to 30 offspring per year. Because voles reproduce quickly, eat so many things and are pretty good at staying out of sight, they can do a lot of damage before you ever figure out what hit you.

Clues are surface tunnels in mulch and along walls as well as golfball-sized holes.

How to control moles

Determine whether you’re mad enough to kill them or satisfied with just trying to relocate them off the lawn.

  1. mole removalKilling moles is normally the most effective long-term control. Some say it’s the only way you’re really going to solve the problem. Killing moles can be done either by traps or baits. Both scissor-type and harpoon-type traps are used. To use these, locate active runs by tamping down tunnels and then watching to see where the tunnels are raised back up a day or two later. These are good spots to insert traps. When the mole comes swimming through, it trips the mechanism that administers the fatal blow.
  2. The kinder, gentler trap approach is to sink a glass jar in the floor of one of the active runs. When the mole comes by, it drops into the jar and can’t climb up the slippery sides. Havahart or similar cage traps also can be used in runs to capture moles instead of kill them. The live animal then can be relocated to a site where it won’t cause trouble.
  3. Numerous poison and anticoagulant baits also are available, but these must be applied with extreme caution so they don’t harm unintended targets or run off into waterways. It’s usually best to hire a pro if you go this route. Pros have access to more effective ingredients that homeowners can’t buy.
  4. Another method of mole control is to repel them. The most widely used repellent is castor oil – whether it’s in a commercial product such as Mole-Med or mixed as a homemade treatment. To make your own safe mole repellent at home, combine 6 ounces of castor oil and 2 tablespoons of liquid detergent in 1 gallon of water. Mix well. Then dilute to spray on the entire lawn at a rate of 1 ounce per gallon of water applied per each 300 square feet of lawn. This may work for awhile, but when the scent goes away, Mr. Mole may well move back to familiar and already-mined territory.
  5. Regulating at least some of a mole’s food supply may help a little. Since moles are fond of beetle grubs in the lawn (one of their benefits to homeowners), you may be able to discourage them by controlling grubs. An annual lawn-grub treatment in June or July of Lebanon Fertilizer with Merit or an application of bacterial-based Milky Spore disease granules can help on that front. If nothing else, you’ve addressed possible lawn damage from the grubs’ feeding.
  6. However, since moles primarily feed on earthworms, killing every last grub won’t solve the mole problem so long as there are still plenty of worms. Finally, homeowners have devised all sorts of gizmos and techniques that some swear cured their mole invasions. None have been backed by scientific research, but if you want to take a crack at any of these anecdotal measures, here you go:

* Sonic chasers. Battery-powered spikes or similar gadgets that vibrate underground.
* Sunken soda bottles with the open tops just above ground. The wind supposedly creates vibrations similar to sonic chasers.
* Gas cartridges lit and inserted into runs.
* Flooding the burrows with water.
* Mothballs in active tunnels.
* Setting out chewing gum, which supposedly clogs up their intestines.
* Dumping used kitty litter or glass fragments down their burrows.
* Inserting lava rocks soaked in onion and garlic solution into burrows.

How to control voles

  1. vole controlOne of the best ways to control voles is to send a cat out on patrol. Cats love hunting for rodents, and they’re often so proud of their conquests that they’ll bring dead prey into the house just to show you what good hunters they are.
  2. If you like the general idea of nature vs nature but not the dead-vole-in-the-house part, encourage other natural vole predators – namely hawks and owls. Planting more trees on your lot is one good move. Or you could add a bird perch or two by erecting a 15-foot pole with a 1- to 2-inch perch at the top. Snakes also are prime vole predators.
  3. Snap traps manufactured mainly for mice also are effective at catching voles. A 50-50 mix of peanut butter and oatmeal is a favorite bait, and so are small apple slices. For maximum effect, place traps along active runs and disguise them with an inverted box and/or leaves and grasses (with the vegetation out of the way enough that it doesn’t impair the traps). Some people allow voles to take the bait for a few days before actually setting the traps.
  4. If you don’t want to kill the voles, use the same baits in a Havahart or similar cage trap. When the vole trips the plate, the doors close. Then you can relocate voles – preferably at least a half mile away in a place that won’t cause damage for someone else.
  5. To discourage voles from tunneling into beds, try digging sharp materials into your soil. Commercial products such as Permatill and Soil Perfector are ideal for this purpose, and even coarse gravel may do the trick. About 10 percent gravel to 90 percent soil is enough to make uncomfortable tunneling for a vole. In existing beds, channels of this material can be dug a few inches vertically into the perimeter – creating a kind of gravelly moat around a flower bed.
  6. In bulb beds, sheets of chicken wire can be laid over the top of the beds to prevent voles and other rodents from burrowing down in. Or the bulbs can be completely surrounded by wire to protect them from all angles. Bulb shoots will poke through the openings. A variety of repellents such as Ro-Pel, Plantskyyd, Liquid Fence, hot-pepper sauce, the fungicide thiram and more are effective at keeping voles from eating live plants and bulbs. The main downside is that these need to be reapplied periodically and after heavy rains.
  7. In a similar protective vein, young trees and shrubs can be saved from bark-gnawing by wrapping hardware cloth around the base of the trunks. Be sure to bury the screen 4 to 5 inches deep and go up the trunks at least 2 feet.

Some of the same anecdotal measures for moles also may help control voles. Or not. If not, professional pest-control companies can usually get things under control with a combination of baits and traps.

Good luck on your quest. Feel free to call us if you have any questions – (651) 646-6431.

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  • NO LONGER OFFERED Minnesota Squirrel Removal Methods For 2018 – 5 Tips
  • How to Remove Minnesota Bees and Wasps Safely
  • How to Exterminate Minnesota Cockroaches
  • NO LONGER OFFERED 13 Lawn Removal Tips for Minnesota Moles and Voles in 2018 – They are Different

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West St Paul MN 55118

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